Silahkan klik tulisan atau gambar untuk lanjut membaca Eat your way into the New Year.
As the New Year arrives around the
globe, special cakes and breads abound, as do long noodles (representing
long life), field peas (representing coins), herring (representing
abundance) and pigs (representing good luck). The particulars vary, but
the general theme is the same: to sit down and share a meal with family
and friends to usher in a year of prosperity.
some of the common traditions around the world and a few hints about
where to partake in them:
Hoppin' John, American
A major New Year's food tradition in the
American South, Hoppin' John is a dish of pork-flavored field peas or
black-eyed peas (symbolizing coins) and rice, frequently served with
collards or other cooked greens (as they're the color of money) and
cornbread (the color of gold). The dish is said to bring good luck in
the new year.
Different folklore traces the history and
the name of this meal, but the current dish has its roots in African
and West Indian traditions and was most likely brought over by slaves to
North America. A recipe for Hoppin' John appears as early as 1847 in
Sarah Rutledge's "The Carolina Housewife" and has been reinterpreted
over the centuries by home and professional chefs.
dish reportedly got its name in Charleston, South Carolina, and it is a
veritable staple of Lowcountry cooking. So this is as good a place as
any to eat it. Husk, the acclaimed restaurant of chef Sean Brock, often
serves Hoppin' John, as does Charleston institution Hominy Grill. Not
heading south for the holidays? Seersucker in Brooklyn, New York, is
serving Hoppin' John from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. on New Year's Day.
While Americans watch the ball drop
in Times Square on New Year's Eve, Spaniards watch the broadcast from
Puerta del Sol in Madrid, where revelers gather in front of the square's
clock tower to ring in the New Year. Those out in the square and those
watching at home partake in an unusual annual tradition: at the stroke
of midnight they eat one grape for every toll of the clock bell. Some
even prep their grapes -- peeling and seeding them -- to make sure they
will be as efficient as possible when midnight comes.
custom began at the turn of the 20th century and was purportedly
thought up by grape producers in the south with a bumper crop. Since
then the tradition has spread to many Spanish-speaking nations.
spending New Year's Eve in Madrid should head over to the Puerta del
Sol before midnight. It's a lively square, surrounded by bars,
restaurants and shopping, so it's a good place to be when the new year
corn dough stuffed with meat, cheese and other delicious additions and
wrapped in a banana leaf or a corn husk, make appearances at pretty much
every special occasion in Mexico. But the holiday season is an
especially favored time for the food. In many families, groups of women
gather together to make hundreds of the little packets -- with each
person in charge of one aspect of the cooking process -- to hand out to
friends, family and neighbors. On New Year's, it's often served with
menudo, a tripe and hominy soup that is famously good for hangovers.
who live in cities with large Mexican populations shouldn't have much
trouble finding restaurants selling tamales to go for New Year's Eve and
Day. But gourmands who want the real deal should head to Mexico City,
where steamed tamales are sold from vendors on street corners day and
night. They can also be found at established restaurants like Flor de
Lis or Pujol or tamale specialists like Los Tamales y Algo Mas.
In the Netherlands, fried oil balls,
or oliebollen, are sold by street carts and are traditionally consumed
on New Year's Eve and at special celebratory fairs. They are
doughnut-like dumplings, made by dropping a scoop of dough spiked with
currants or raisins into a deep fryer and then dusted with powdered
In Amsterdam, be on the lookout for
Oliebollenkraams, little temporary shacks or trailers on the street
selling packets of hot fried oliebollen.
or Glücksschwein, Austria and Germany
its neighbor to the north, Germany, call New Year's Eve Sylvesterabend,
or the eve of Saint Sylvester. Austrian revelers drink a red wine punch
with cinnamon and spices, eat suckling pig for dinner and decorate the
table with little pigs made of marzipan, called marzipanschwein. Good
luck pigs, or Glücksschwein, which are made of all sorts of things, are
also common gifts throughout both Austria and Germany.
bakeries this time of year will be filled with a variety of pig-shaped
sweets. Head to Julius Meinl, with more than three floors of gourmet
food shopping, cafes and restaurants, to find the most impressive
display of pig-shaped Champagne truffles, marzipan and chocolate in a
variety of sizes.
Soba noodles, Japan
Japanese households, families eat buckwheat soba noodles, or toshikoshi
soba, at midnight on New Year's Eve to bid farewell to the year gone by
and welcome the year to come. The tradition dates back to the 17th
century, and the long noodles symbolize longevity and prosperity. In
another custom called mochitsuki, friends and family spend the day
before New Year's pounding mochi rice cakes. Sweet, glutinous rice is
washed, soaked, steamed and pounded into a smooth mass. Then guests take
turns pinching off pieces to make into small buns that are later eaten
This New Year's Eve, at Manhattan Japanese
restaurant En Japanese Brasserie, the chef (and willing customers) will
take part in the mochitsuki. The resulting mochi will be served as
dessert later in the evening. The restaurant is also serving two kaiseki
menus, both featuring soba noodles as a final savory course. At
midnight, they will break open a barrel of sake to welcome the New Year.
cake, around the globe
The tradition of a New
Year's cake is one that spans countless cultures. The Greeks have the
Vasilopita, the French the gateau or galette des rois. Mexicans have the
Rosca de Reyes and Bulgarians enjoy the banitsa.
of the cakes are consumed at midnight on New Year's Eve -- though some
cultures cut their cake on Christmas or the Epiphany, January 6 -- and
include a hidden gold coin or figure, which symbolizes a prosperous year
for whomever finds it in their slice.
Italians celebrate New Year's
Eve with La Festa di San Silvestro, often commencing with a traditional
cotechino con lenticchie, a sausage and lentil stew that is said to
bring good luck (the lentils represent money and good fortune) and, in
certain households, zampone, a stuffed pig's trotter.
meal ends with chiacchiere -- balls of fried dough that are rolled in
honey and powdered sugar -- and prosecco. The dishes find their roots in
Modena, but New Year's Eve feasts thrive across the country.
herring, Poland and Scandinavia
Because herring is
in abundance in Poland and parts of Scandinavia, and because of their
silver coloring, many in those nations eat pickled herring at the stroke
of midnight to bring a year of prosperity and bounty. Some eat pickled
herring in cream sauce, some have it with onions.
special Polish New Year's Eve preparation of pickled herring, called
Sledzie Marynowane, is made by soaking whole salt herrings in water for
24 hours and then layering them in a jar with onions, allspice, sugar
and white vinegar. Scandinavians will often include herring in a larger
midnight smorgasbord with smoked and pickled fish, pate and meatballs.
Denmark and Norway
Kransekage, literally wreath
cake, is a cake tower composed of many concentric rings of cake layered
atop one another, and they are made for New Year's Eve and other special
occasions in Denmark and Norway. The cake is made using marzipan, often
with a bottle of wine or Aquavit in the center and can be decorated
with ornaments, flags and crackers.
Those who can't
make it to Copenhagen this year for Danish treats should check out
Larsen's Danish Bakery in the Ballard neighborhood of Seattle. They have
a long-running mail-order business to accommodate kransekage lovers
across the country and carefully pack each ring on the tower
individually for easy assembly right before your New Year's Eve feast. A
10-ring cake goes for $86; an 18-ring cake is $150.